Soil - The Correct Mix

African violets need a light, porous potting mix which allows the tender roots to get air and to absorb water as well. Spaghnum peat moss is usually used as a base, to which vermiculite and perlite are added to help create air spaces the roots need to grow. It is also recommended that the pH be 6.8.

It is helpful to keep in mind that African Violets originated in the African country of Tanzania, where they typically grow in leaf compost, near moist, humid riverbeds or streams where soil aeration is high. They have been found growing on cliffs and in ravines where there is little soil, but decaying leaves and twigs on which to spread their roots.

Many African violet fanciers prefer to mix their own soil rather than to buy it from commercialized sources. They experiment with different combinations of sphagnum peat moss, vermiculite and perlite, with the standard recommended combination being 1:1:1 (one part sphagnum peat moss, one part perlite and one part vermiculite). I use a 3:2:1 mix and add a in few wood chips.

Many growers add a little charcoal or a tablespoon of dolomite lime to control pH and coconut coir as a substitute for peat moss.

With a "soil-less" mix, you may wonder how African violets get the nutrition they need to grow. Fertilizers! There are many sold commercially, some marked specifically for African violets. How often you water your plants with fertilizer may depend on if you are watering frequently (cut back to every other watering), or only once a week (fertilize with every watering). Read label instructions before mixing into water. Summer temperatures may cause greater evaporation and you may find that watering more often than once a week is necessary. If this is the case, you may only need to fertilize with every other watering.


Propagating With Vermiculite

Many people propagate leaf cuttings by using vermiculite alone, with no peat moss or perlite. Leaf cuttings can be placed in a plastic bag in a warm area, with a small amount of vermiculite in one corner of the bag. The wetted leaf cutting is inserted in the vermiculite and the bag is sealed to retain moisture. It is not necessary to unseal the bag or to water until it becomes obvious that roots have been developing for several weeks. At this time, the developing plantlet can be repotted to a mixture of peat moss, perlite and vermiculite.

Note that peat moss used straight from the bag is VERY dry (seems to have no moisture at all), and can be difficult to moisten quickly. If I am putting down leaf cuttings, I make my soil mix and then moisten it, cover it at least overnight, or for a couple of days, and then put down the cuttings. This ensures a uniform overall moist environment with no dry spots in the mix that may hinder rooting.

The photo above shows the light "soil-less"
mixture I use when starting plantlets. Because
the roots need air to "breathe," I don't pack
down the soil around the leaf cutting, but just add
it loosely to the planting container.




 

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